The pull of the silver screen
We left Lisbon heading west, in search of Bond. James Bond. 007. As a kid, I’d been entranced by the action, the adventure, and the sumptuous locations that give the Bond movies their magic. Knowing that one of those locations was close, the pull to visit was irresistible. The pull of the silver screen, to place myself into the opening scene of ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’.
In search of Bond
Driving out of Lisbon along the coast, the wide estuary of the Tagus River accompanied us on our left, its water plied by yachts, ferries, and tankers. A busy waterway in and out of Portugal’s newly energised and trendy capital. The coast itself was pleasant enough; mainly low-rise suburbs that filled the space between Lisbon and Cascais. Cascais is a resort come city escape a short train or bus ride away from the capital. Having said that, I wasn’t feeling the Bond inspiration. I wasn’t hearing the ‘Monty Norman Orchestra’s ‘James Bond Theme’ playing in my head.
A different world
Leaving Cascais the coast suddenly turns northwards. The houses melt away like they never existed, and the coast becomes wild and rugged, alive lush green and spring flowers. The relatively calm waters of the estuary give way to the roaring surf as the coast faces the full force of the wild Atlantic.
That James Bond feelin’
A fort sits on a rocky headland, and stretching to the north there’s a beautiful wave-lashed beach, backed by dunes piled high and covered with a fragile ecosystem of herbs and colourful flowers blooming in the early spring sun.
On Her Majesty’s Secret Service
We were here, Praia do Guincho. The Bond theme was playing loudly in my head and we were walking in the footsteps of the famous secret agent. In the movie, released in 1969, the thrilling opening fight takes place on this beach. It introduces a new James Bond, in the form of George Lazenby, as he rescues ‘Tracy’ played by the elegant and spectacular Diana Rigg, from an attempted suicide and two mafia goons. It’s a brilliant scene-setter for the movie that is unique in the Bond series. It’s the only movie where Bond marries – which, of course, does not end well for our hero.
The magnificent Diana Rigg
I should say that sadly Diana Rigg passed away recently. She was never less than an enthralling performer, from her breakout role in The Avengers, through to her performances in Game of Thrones and Last Night in Soho (2021). She was also a paragon in the battle for woman’s rights and equality in the entertainment business. An inspiring lady.
Taking in the scene
Jane (my wonderful sister) and I threaded down through the dunes on a wooden walkway, the aroma of fresh-scented flowers and sea salt blowing in our faces.
The beach is every bit as spectacular as it was half a century before. Apart from a girl jogging along the beach and a few youngsters doing a surfing class, it was totally empty. I thought this strange, given its beauty and proximity to Lisbon. I gazed around, taking in the scene, remembering the shots from the movie. Out to sea, I admired the roaring breakers as they crashed along the shoreline. A coast guard helicopter seemed to be practicing a sea rescue, one of the crew dangling on a rope a few hundred meters out.
I drank in the scene. Places don’t always live up to expectations, but I’m happy to say Praia do Guincho was a 10 out of 10. As Bond says before the opening credits roll ‘This never happened to the other fella!’.
Check out the scene: On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969) Gunbarrel, Beach fight and title sequence – YouTube
Movie Trailer: On Her Majesty’s Secret Service Trailer – Modern Style – James Bond 007 – YouTube
And John Barry’s fantastic score: This Never Happened To The Other Fella (Remastered) – YouTube
And one tribute song for Diana Rigg: We have all the time in the World (the love theme from the movie). We Have All The Time In The World (Remastered) – YouTube
Mission accomplished
Bond mission accomplished, we left the secret service behind and headed north to explore the Costa de Sintra. All of this section of the coast is protected within the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais, covering 145 km². This perhaps accounts for the lack of garish development here. The coast is lush and green. We passed through wooded valleys and flower-filled meadows, zipping past traditional Portuguese windmills as we tracked north.
Cabo de Roca
Next stop was Cabo de Roca, mainland Europe’s most westerly point, jutting out in the Atlantic. As we approached the cape, trees disappeared, replaced by bushes, herbs, and flowers hunkering low to the ground, their forms bent towards the land by the unrelenting force of the sea wind. On the cape itself there’s an elegant lighthouse, and below, plunging cliffs and the roaring sea, curving the cliffs into isolated rocks and towers. Another worthy spot.
Praia das Maçãs
From here we continued north, exploring a succession of picture-perfect beaches, each with their own distinct personality. Praia das Maçãs is a small golden sand cove, a little white village perched above. It has a train connection to Sintra town itself, with its magnificent, over-the-top palaces of imperial Portugal. The town itself has a very low-key, family-orientated vibe. We had a chilled lunch at a friendly bar, and I had a wade in some of the beach’s tidal pools, searching out schools of young fish in the crystal-clear water.
Surfy Chic
Further north was Foz de Lizandro, a wide, epic stretch of sand with a rushing river plunging into the sea on the southern flank. A group of cormorants dried their wings in the rocks under the craggy cliffs. This beach, just south of Ericeira, is a real surfy spot, with wild waves and a ‘hang ten’ vibe. Surfboards were tucked under every arm, and a couple of bars perched above the beach exude surfy cool. For experienced surfers, this is a great spot, and I duly noted it as a place I want to return to again.
Ericeira
5 minutes drive away is Ericeira itself. The stylish town is situated on a high bluff, imperiously looking down at the sea, and a beach crowded with beach ball players and protected by a breakwater. The swell, tamed by the artificial barrier, attracts the surfing ‘newbies’, people not quite up to carving the waves of the powerful Atlantic, but with plenty of energy and enthusiasm nevertheless.
Ericeira is a low-rise, elegant town, crammed with surf shops and bars, and reverberating with the sounds of Hendrix and Bob Marley. It was spring, and not that busy, but I had the feeling the party was just gettin’ started, and come the summer the place would be a buzzing surfers’ mecca. The idea wasn’t entirely unpleasant to me. With evening closing in and the sky turning a rich orange, we headed back to Lisbon after a full and exhilarating day on the road.
For more articles on Portugal check out:
Dolphins, dinosaurs and wild coast – The Setúbal Peninsula – The Lacandongringo
Portuguese street art: Eye-popping graffiti and elegant azulejos – The Lacandongringo
Algarve – by the seat of your pants! – The Lacandongringo
For more coastal adventures check out:
Cabo de Gata – Between Mediterranean Heaven and Plastic Hell – The Lacandongringo
For adventures in the wild:
The Lion’s roar – one night on the Serengeti – The Lacandongringo
Fire on the Mountains: A journey into the Annapurna Sanctuary – The Lacandongringo