Almeria and its surrounding area, the desert of Tabernas, and the fresh green heights of the Sierra de Gador provide a perfect getaway for people seeking to escape the ‘winter’ blues. It’s perfect for exploring in spring before the intense heat of summer in Europe’s only desert kicks in, and while the hills and valleys are carpeted with vibrant meadows of spring flowers.
We often head out from Granada to Almeria in the spring, when it’s still cool and cloudy around the mountain heights of the Sierra Nevada, but the weather is warm and sunny in the bays and valleys of the Cabo de Gata National Park. This time though, we decided to explore some of the under-appreciated gems close to Almeria itself.
We stayed in a simple and remote mountain lodge, Las Tres Patas. This is a beautiful spot, out in the countryside overlooking the tiny village of Enix, perhaps a kilometre away across the valley. The owners were very chilled, friendly people and their dog’s playful puppies totally enchanted Gabi! She couldn’t put the little fluffballs down! From the house there are views all the way down the Mediterranean. It’s the kind of spot for contemplating the stars in the deep black night, far from any light pollution and waking to the buzzing of insects and birdsong.
The following day we headed across the Sierra de Gador to the North, to one of the valleys in the upper reaches of the Tabernas desert. Here we spent the morning exploring one of Almeria’s unsung and under-rated highlights, the ancient archaeological sight of Los Millares in the valley of Andarax river. Around 4700 years ago the area was settled by a copper age civilization who built a community that lasted perhaps 900 years. They built a fortified town on a spur, overlooking a river valley. The town had 4 sets of defensive walls and the people here ceremonially buried their dead in tombs that now lie scattered across the landscape. All this is plainly visible now, along with a ‘reconstructed’ site which shows how the village would have looked at its height. It’s a fascinating visit and is currently free of charge. The site’s age compares with the Minoan Civilization of ancient Crete as one of Europe’s first. Who and where these people came from is still a mystery. The climate has changed a lot since these people lived in the valley. 4500 years ago the area was a rich forest, changed now to the arid desert scrub that is the areas signature and set for movies as diverse as Gladiator, Once Upon a Time in the West and A Fistfull of Dollars. After the spring rains though, the desert comes alive with flowers and the scents of herbs and Jasmine.
We headed to the region’s historic capital, Almeria for the afternoon. Despite Almeria’s long history as one of the Moors richest and most powerful centres, I can’t say I find the city itself that inspiring. It has a slightly run down vibe, although it’s pleasant enough in the old town around the Cathedral. It wasn’t really the town I was here to see though, more the magnificent Moorish fortress or Alcazaba that entirely dominates the city beneath it. This is another treat, a kind of fortress from my childhood dreams and seemingly under-visited and under-appreciated by the locals and visitors alike. Like the Alhambra in Granada it served as both a Palace and Fortress, with great square towers, water gardens and magnificent views from its crenelated walls. Hollywood took note of its amazing cinematic potential decades ago and since then it has been host to an almost constant stream of movie productions with classics like Anthony and Cleopatra, Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade, Conan the Barbarian and recently the hit TV series Game of Thrones being filmed there. It’s a movie lovers’ delight of sword and sandals action! I had a blast, childhood fantasies reborn!! Unfortunately we had to head back to Granada the next day, but we made the most of the drive back by driving the deeply scenic valley that threads between the Alpujarras to the South and Sierra Nevada. It’s a much longer drive than the highway to the north, but rewarding in views. We crossed the Sierra Nevada at the spectacular Puerto de la Ragua, still dusted with winter snow and headed home after a weekend full of rich experiences and memories.
