Inland from Malaga and just south of the historic town of Antequera is the protected area of El Torcal, surely one of Spain’s most otherworldly and inspiring landscapes. El Torcal is an ancient limestone plateau, elevated above the surrounding countryside. Eroded over millions of years by the actions of wind, ice and water, the landscape is more like something you’d expect to find in the Canyonlands of the US than in Europe. From the well-organised visitor centre high up on the plateau, you’re surrounded by a forest of bizarrely shaped limestone towers, cliffs and deeply incised gullies, with overhanging ledges and huge boulders left resting in the most precipitous of locations. Three official walking trails, marked as green (the shortest 1.5km), yellow (3 km) and red (the longest route, 3.6 km) radiate outwards from visitor centre, picking their way through a landscape that seems to get more remarkable and wonderful at every turn – a natural cathedral of rock sculpture.
At the edge of the plateau there are fantastic views out over the surrounding agricultural plains far below, and nature lovers will appreciate the almost constant presence of large numbers of huge Griffon Vultures that make El Torcal their home. Also look out for rare Golden Eagles that can sometimes be seen sharing the thermals with the vultures. It’s is lovely spot, although the trails and area around the visitor centre can get very busy in the summer and on weekends – so don’t expect to be alone!
A worthwhile stop when heading back towards Antequera is the interesting Lobo Parque (Wolf Park) set in scrubby forest with nice views of the Torcal massif. It’s part conservation/education project, part safari park – housing orphaned wolves of various different subspecies (Iberian, Arctic etc) in large, spacious enclosures. Several times a day informative tours are given around the park by staff who are obviously passionate and well informed about the conservation of the magnificent carnivores, both in Spain and further afield. It’s an interesting and fun stop for both adults and kids who are interested in wildlife.
